Setting Up the Pool
Before You Begin: Check and Prepare
Before doing anything else, open the box and make sure all parts for both the pool and the pump are included. Pumps often come with separate manuals, so be sure to locate those as well.
While no one loves the phrase "read the manual," this is one of those times when it’s absolutely worth it—and it won’t take long. Reading the manual first can save you time, frustration, and costly mistakes.
To keep your manuals safe and dry, place them in a plastic Ziploc bag for easy storage and protection.
Level Ground is Critical for Pool Setup
If the ground is not level, your pool—and the water inside it—will be unlevel.
Keep in mind: water weighs several tons. If the ground is soft or not properly compacted, the pool may sink or shift, causing damage or safety hazards.
Before Assembly:
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Open the box and lay out the liner in direct sunlight for a few hours.
The warmth makes the liner more flexible and easier to work with. -
Measure your setup area carefully.
Refer to your pool’s manual to confirm the required space for the pool’s diameter. -
Allow extra space.
You’ll need a few additional feet around the pool for equipment and safety.
For example, if your pool is 15 feet in diameter, measure at least an 18-foot area.
This extra space accommodates pumps, hoses, ladders, and safe access.

Setting Up the Pool
Preparing the Ground for Your Pool
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Ground must be flat, level, and compact.
Avoid mud, sand, soft soil, or loose dirt—these can shift under the weight of the water. The surface should also be free of rocks, branches, roots, or anything sharp that could puncture the liner. -
Perfectly level isn’t always realistic—but the closer, the better.
Many pool owners operate with a slightly uneven pool and never experience issues. However, the more level your pool is, the better your pump will work—and the easier it will be to maintain water balance and cleanliness. -
Expect some settling.
No matter how well you prepare, the weight of the water will compact the ground further. Leveling and compacting the top layer of sand or soil beforehand helps minimize this effect. -
After leveling, lay down the tarp (ground cloth) in the exact spot where the pool will be installed. This creates a barrier between the liner and the ground.
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Optional comfort upgrade:
Some pool owners place foam boards or similar padding beneath the liner for a softer feel underfoot and extra liner protection. -
Position your pump wisely.
Make sure it’s close enough to a grounded electrical outlet—you may need an outdoor-rated extension cord if the cord doesn’t reach. -
Keep the hose nearby.
You’ll need it to fill the pool and occasionally top it off due to evaporation or splash-out.


FILLING THE POOL
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Filling Takes Time:
It may take many hours—or even overnight—to fill your pool completely, depending on your water pressure and pool size. -
Watch for Wrinkles:
During the initial fill, check the liner every few minutes to smooth out any wrinkles on the bottom.
You can only do this while the pool is shallow. Once a few inches of water are in, the weight will lock the liner in place. -
Pump Safety – Important:
Do NOT turn on the pump until the water level is above all inlets/returns.
If inlets aren’t submerged, air can enter the pump, which may cause damage.
Exception: Some pools have pumps with built-in skimmers that mount to the pool wall—these can operate differently. -
O-Ring Tip:
When setting up the pump, apply lubricant (like Vaseline) to the O-ring on the pump lid.
This will make it much easier to open later—especially under pressure.
If left dry, the lid will become harder to remove over time. -
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SWIM READY
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Once Water Covers All Inlets:
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Connect the pump and filter system.
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Add chlorine using a floater:
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2–3 tablets of 1" chlorine, or
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1 tablet of 3" chlorine
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Run the pump continuously for 8–12 hours to circulate the chlorine.
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Water Testing:
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After 24 hours, use test strips to check:
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Chlorine
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pH
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Alkalinity
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Stabilizer (CYA)
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Continue testing daily to maintain water balance.
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Can You Swim Right Away?
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Yes—if you used tap water and added chlorine correctly, it’s just like playing in the sprinkler or hose.
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If you filled with well water and the water turns green or brown after adding chlorine, you likely have metals or minerals.
Best tip for removing metals: Use the “Sock Trick” – no chemicals or cost!
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